Stewart, BC – The Salmon Glacier and Seafood Express in
Hyder, AK
August 27, 2013
A late start got us to Hyder to the bear viewing area to
learn we missed a grizzly, black bear, and a wolf. But sleeping in was good
too. First time we crossed the border into the US without anybody seeming to
care. We spent about an hour there learning to differentiate chum from pink
salmon and other important trivia from a volunteer. Since the weather was clearing
we went up the road to see Salmon Glacier. I am sure glad we did as it turned
out to be one of the prettiest, spectacular drives on the trip. The road had
major work underway and was a mess as I went into 4-WD. The major culprit was a
project nearing completion to use ice field run-off in a hydro-electric
project.
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Bear and Wolf food, but neither showed up for us.
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We really lucked out as skies cleared sufficiently to give
us spectacular views of the glacier below
us and mountains and more glaciers above us and across the valley. We hit the
summit and then went down the other side. It got better believe it or not. Now
we had waterfalls too, and side roads to explore. We found an old tunnel from
mining days that went through the mountain. Upon reaching the far side we found
the road chained closed for “road work.” That stopped us from trying to get
down to the drained glacial lake bed and the grounded icebergs. See the
pictures to understand what I’m talking about. The lake reforms every year,
then drains in mid-summer.
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Salmon Glacier from the top of the drive. We are about 1500' above it here.
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Salmon Glacier - looking left
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Salmon Glacier - Looking right where lake forms each year and then drains in mid to late summer.
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Lake bed area with "grounded" icebergs
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Mountain Valley past Salmon Glacier
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The end of the valley and beyond
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New lake forming on right side of Salmon Glacier
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We stopped in Hyder to pick up some smoked salmon. We did
that and also found one of the “Top 100 Places to Eat Like a Local” (Travel and Leisure Magazine, April,
2013). The name of this establishment is “Seafood Express, Hyder, Alaska.”
Well, to order you walk up to the door of the school bus. It’s painted white. There
are picnic tables outside or more inside a building behind the bus. The food is
delivered to you by the cook herself. We had Mermaid (smoked salmon and
halibut) Chowder, halibut fish and chips, pan fried halibut cheeks, and Smoked
Salmon Pasta Salad. Every serving was simply divine!!! The breading on the
halibut was like tempura. In my opinion, the halibut cheeks tasted like they
were poached in butter.
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Owner and Founder Diana with Katherine
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As we were driving towards the border, I spotted the “The
Glacier Inn” where one goes to “Get Hyderized.” Since I had completed the first
2 legs of the Drive to Alaska “Triple Crown of Booze,” I had to stop. I did and
both Donna and I”got Hyderized.” What is this you say, well of course another
alcoholic drink. This one had a “kicker,” put down the entire shot in one gulp
and keep it down or buy a round for the “house.” Challenge made…challenge met
by both of us. What was it? Just a shot of 150 proof Hooch from a brown paper
bag wrapped bottle. Not bad either.
To be honest folks, we were wondering why in God’s name why
did we come down Cassiar Highway. The road is as bad as “Top of the World” in
many places. We have had no cell service since Skagway (4 days). We found the
pot of gold in Stewart, Hyder, and the Glacier Road. Our day was topped off as
we saw a bear as we were heading back up to the viewing area. We also found pay
phones are cheap…$1 for a 15 minute direct dial call to the US!
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No bear picture, but we did get the Bald Eagle with his leftovers.
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